|
|
Post by dgaddis1 on Jan 5, 2009 10:05:25 GMT -5
Any want to give me a hand converting a tire to tubeless? Got a stans kit for Christmas from my folks. A friend and I were able to get a Kenda Small Block 8 set up on the rear, but couldn't get the bead seated on the front tire (2.1" WTB Weirwolf).
Volunteers??
|
|
|
|
Post by ted on Jan 5, 2009 14:10:47 GMT -5
GO to www.notubes.com/support_movies.php if you haven't already. I assume you have. What rims are you using? Are you using the Stans rubber rim strip or the yellow tape or both? Is your WTB kevlar bead or steel or tubeless? If using yellow tape only, make sure to stretch it as you install it and make sure it's centered. If using rubber rim strip w/valve already installed, make sure strip is perfectly even. Also make sure there is enough space between the rim strip and/or tape and the hook on the rim for the bead to actually seat in. How much pressure did you put in while trying to seat the bead? I know I've had a bear of a time with WTB weirwolfs and I've also had the easiest time with them as well. It all depends on the rim/tire combo. I could go on but I'll allow you time to reply. I'd be glad to help on thurs or friday when I'm in the shop. One note, be very careful while doing all of this. Wear goggles and gloves. I had a non-tubeless tire blow off the rim while inflating it and the shockwave that hit my hand caused numbness for days. Nobody likes numbness as far as I know. |
|
|
|
Post by dgaddis1 on Jan 5, 2009 14:47:51 GMT -5
Yep, been there, watched the movie. Mavic 317's Are you using the Stans rubber rim strip or the yellow tape or both? On the front wheel, the yellow tape and stans rubber rim strip. When drilling out the rim the factory rim strip got ate up pretty bad, so I took it out and put in several layers of the thin yellow tape. The rear wheel, the factory rimstrip didn't get tore up by the drill, so I left it in and also used the stans rim strip. Is your WTB kevlar bead or steel or tubeless? Steel bead. If using yellow tape only, make sure to stretch it as you install it and make sure it's centered. Done. If using rubber rim strip w/valve already installed, make sure strip is perfectly even. Also make sure there is enough space between the rim strip and/or tape and the hook on the rim for the bead to actually seat in. Done. I used lots of soapy water when installing the rimstrip to make sure it had equal tension all around the wheel. How much pressure did you put in while trying to seat the bead? I know I've had a bear of a time with WTB weirwolfs and I've also had the easiest time with them as well. It all depends on the rim/tire combo. The air compressor I used was small, and I couldn't get a lot of flow. The problem was the bead on each side of the tire tended to "meet in the middle" instead of spreading out towards the rim, so I never got any pressure built up in the tire. It's not a new tire, it's had plenty of use. I could go on but I'll allow you time to reply. I'd be glad to help on thurs or friday when I'm in the shop. One note, be very careful while doing all of this. Wear goggles and gloves. I had a non-tubeless tire blow off the rim while inflating it and the shockwave that hit my hand caused numbness for days. Nobody likes numbness as far as I know. I'll probably take you up on that. What hours will you be there? |
|
|
|
Post by ted on Jan 5, 2009 18:46:40 GMT -5
I'm thinking it could either be the wire beaded tire....
...the rubber rim strip and/or yellow tape position and so on.
I'll be there all day both days. I'm always up for a challenge.
We can give your current tire a shot. Usually having high pressure helps, but not always.
If you want to consider a new/different tire let Phil or brad know and they can get you one in a day or so.
I'd also try removing the factory rim strip and installing stans tape alone.
|
|
|
|
Post by oddcouple on Jan 5, 2009 23:01:14 GMT -5
Take the stans valve off the stem you will get alot more air volume be careful it will fill up fast when doing this.Take the air off once inflated and put the stans valve back on with the air in the tire.Have to do kinda fast but it works.Have been using stans since 2003 have never had a problem that was not my fault.
|
|
|
|
Post by oddcouple on Jan 6, 2009 23:17:52 GMT -5
Watched the installation movie for the first time tonite. I use a pump spray bottle to apply the soapy water alot less messy.He also said take the valve core out.I leave it out to get the tire to seal and put the valve core back in before all the air leaks out.Then I spin the tire and move it from side to side than if it still leaks I wiggle it like he shows on the movie.To get the bead out against the rim if still having trouble take piece of rope put it in the center of the tire wrap it around pull it tight it will make the beads push to the outside of the rim.Keep your fingers away from the bead when you inflate.This is and old race car tire mounting trick.
|
|
|
|
Post by dgaddis1 on Jan 8, 2009 11:24:19 GMT -5
Not gonna make to the shop this week Tod. I've been sent to Spartanburg for work for a few weeks.
Russell, I knew you told me about a trick from mounting car tires, I just couldn't remember what it was! I'll try it out, I think it'll work.
Thanks for the tips everyone.
|
|
|
|
Post by dgaddis1 on Feb 3, 2009 8:46:51 GMT -5
Decided to try running the 2.35" small block 8 up front for the snake this weekend. I could use the extra volume, and there were not many leaves on the trail last time. So, I tried to get it set up tubless. It inflated no problem, but never would seal around the bead. I'm chalking this up to the the layer of tape being too thin. So I'm going to add some more tape and try again.
What I'm more concerned with, I had a leak in the seam in the rim, on the same surface the spkokes penetrate (the wall closest to the hub in other words).
Bad tape job maybe? Any other ideas?
The plan right now is to remove the existing tape, clean the rim really well, then put in new tape, thicker than last time, and try again.
|
|
|
|
Post by ted on Feb 3, 2009 11:05:36 GMT -5
Leak at the seam? These rims (317) are pinned at the joint and not welded. Tape won't help much unless you can get it up on the sidewall and even then it may still not work. You'll just have to experiment with it until you either quit or have success.
Leak at the bead? I've had this same situation and just added more fluid (up to 3 scoops, sometimes 4 if you don't use a tubeless specific tire) until it sealed.
Sometimes adding more juice will solve the problem as most of the holes in the tire and rim will be filled in with enough fluid to seal. Basically building up the latex on the inside of the tire and rim by allowing enough time for the latex to cure.
|
|
|
|
Post by Mark Y on Aug 2, 2009 19:59:25 GMT -5
I'm looking at converting to tubeless. I'm running WTB Exiwolf's on WTB Laserdisc 29 wheels; and on the Stan's website it says to use a weatherseal in the drop channel due to the depth. This an added step that I'm not sure complicates things.
Anybody with experience on this particular combo that could share some insight?
|
|
|
|
Post by ted on Aug 2, 2009 20:58:58 GMT -5
Use the exact method described.
Make sure the yellow rim tape is on perfect with no gaps or bubbles. Go around twice. If you're not sure how to install this tape, watch the video. You really have to stretch it.
The weather seal is to help the "Plus 4" rubber stans rim strip with the valve attached seal better by not allowing it to sink down into that deep channel.
Use about 3-4 scoops of stans to seal this setup as it will likely have lots of voids where air can escape.
|
|
LIKE us on Facebook 
