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Post by Ted S. on Nov 18, 2010 15:41:19 GMT -5
Its time to replace my chain rings and cassette(11-32) and I was thinking of trying some chain rings out side of the normal 44/32/22 configuration. something more like 44/34/24 or 26 Does anybody have any experience with this?? I have a 4 bolt FSA crank set. I found a pretty good deal on a cassette at pricepoint does anyone have any other suggestions as to where to look for drive train components??
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Post by dgaddis1 on Nov 18, 2010 16:02:02 GMT -5
Do you really see much use in a taller granny gear? Seems like that's mostly a bail out gear anyhow, might as well let it be short as possible.
I could see the use of a larger middle ring, especially for someone like you that tends to hammer all the time. It could help you minimize front shifting since it'll basically push you 'back' in the cassette for any given speed. Around here at least, when you head to the mtns you'll probably find yourself reaching for that granny sooner.
Now, I'm not sure how switching chainring sizes will effect shifting up front tho.
EDIT - oh, and I've heard to stick with the same rings as the cranks are designed around. FWIW.
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Post by wooglin on Nov 18, 2010 20:10:05 GMT -5
I gotta agree. When you need the granny you need the granny. I don't EVER recall wishing it was bigger.
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Post by Ted S. on Nov 18, 2010 23:01:12 GMT -5
well put a 'bail out gear', is exactly what it usually ends up to be, it just seems its geared way to low and I end up spinning like mad, spinning the rear tire out, or loosing all momentum?? was thinking a taller gear would help put a little more power down w/ out being to hard to push.
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Post by dgaddis1 on Nov 19, 2010 7:46:54 GMT -5
just shift to a harder gear in the back?
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Post by Ted S. on Nov 19, 2010 11:20:00 GMT -5
Ideally that's how it would work, but bailing down to granny usually occurs when middle chain ring tallest cog combo has become to much to push, landing you in, Granny x your tallest gear, this all while on a step grade, with a lot of load on the chain shifting is tough at this point.
But its good point and planning shifts a head of time helps, there is a ragging debate on MTBR over this subject, still not sure which way to go.?
the packaged 22/32/44 combos as well as the 24/34/46 combos are reasonably priced the mix and match single ring prices get a little spendy.
For know all works fine and I will keep an eye on sales.
Thanks for the input.
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Post by dgaddis1 on Nov 19, 2010 11:39:06 GMT -5
Here's a thought:
Buy the 24/36/46 if you KNOW you want the 36T middle ring.
The middle ring is probably the only one that really needs replacing, the granny and big ring don't get too much use.
So you can try the new granny/big ring, but if you don't like them, put the old ones back on.
If the granny is really worn, just flip it around so it's pulling the chain with the other side of the teeth. The granny doesn't have shift ramps/pins, so it's the only one you can do that with.
But again, I'm not sure how shifting would be with mis-matched rings. I'd imagine it would suffer, but it may not be too bad.
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Post by ted on Nov 20, 2010 9:49:42 GMT -5
Teds S., I'm going to retract my statement about having made my last post. I still visit this site and can't sit around watching people give out bad advice. That was one main reason I got so very frustrated in the past. I'm currently using a 24 which is very nice for places such as Pisgah. It still provides enough gear to get up the steep stuff while allowing a better chain line. I've also tried a 26 but found it to be too much for lots of Pisgah climbing situations. One other note, I never need my granny around here so I put one on that I know I'll use and it's ready for me when I go to the mountains. I still retain a 32t in the middle after finding a 34t too much to handle, if I'm not in shape enough, over the long haul. Just last week I purchased a new XT crankset Shimano is now providing with a 24-32-42T on it. The 42t is an excellent gear for around here if you like to get into the big ring any and just crank it. I found I can stay in the big ring longer without having to shift to the middle to get up little inclines around lots of the trails at FATS. The other benefit to running a tighter ratio on your cranks is the chainline remains in the middle of the cassette more and stays out of the extreme big and small cogs resulting in a more effecient and less wearing drivetrain. As far as shifting with mismatched rings, the quality and shift ramp design matters more than the tooth count in this situation. If you want to get scientific and look at then actual gear inches the use this online calculator from Sheldon Brown's site. www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/DG and Woog, we get it. You ride single speeds and don't need all those gears. Cool for you. As for the rest of those that use full gears and have questions, why don't you try to give advice based on facts and not what you speculate everyone else should ride. You guys are self proclaimed advice givers on this site, and that's a good thing. However, you need to keep in mind who you are giving advice to and give good, informed advice. These are the "definitive" answers that I was talking about that you guys always seem to think is the law of the land. Not everyone rides like you, shops where you do, and wants to buy the same stuff you do. Please try to be a little more diplomatic and open minded with the new members and others that have questions. Remember, both of you were new once and one of you is relatively new to cycling period. Don't get me wrong, both of you are assets for this club, but not when you answer like this. Ted, I've refined my current drivetrain to suit myself over the years and have found what works good for me. If you're interested I've got a large, personal selection of chainrings that I believe will work on your crankset. If you are interested I'll let you borrow any chainring combination you want to see what you think before you purchase. I've got a 24 and 26T small ring and a 42t and 46t big ring you're welcome to try. Just let me know.
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Post by Ted S. on Nov 20, 2010 12:01:03 GMT -5
Thanks I'll come by the shop next week and give the other rings a try. Much appreciated. This is a great biking community, and after only being here since Feb. feel really welcome and really lucky to have made so many bike addicted friends.
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Post by Ted S. on Nov 23, 2010 10:26:58 GMT -5
Hey Ted- Thanks for the rings I am going to try the 24 and 34 this week and see what I think. Jimmy helped me change them over and since the crank was pulled I ended buying a new bottom bracket as well, the bearings felt pretty crunchy, although I never noticed it while riding.
Today's ride is just an hour of easy spinning but tomorrow I will push a faster pace and do some intervals as well And I will slip a long ride in on the weekend, Thurs or Friday I will go out and hit duck pond rd and get a feel for that taller granny, this should give me a good idea of how it feels.
THANKS again Ted
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Post by Ted S. on Dec 2, 2010 10:17:26 GMT -5
going to go with a 24/34/42 set up!! I've been scouring the web for deals and it looks like price point is the best, Any one out there have any sugestions on sites to check for deals on chain rings??
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Post by wooglin on Dec 2, 2010 12:03:07 GMT -5
going to go with a 24/34/42 set up!! I've been scouring the web for deals and it looks like price point is the best, Any one out there have any sugestions on sites to check for deals on chain rings?? I'm interested in your logic. Ted's point on granny gear chainline was well taken, and I think that 42 would be a go-to gear on a lot of the local trails with the 34 taking that spot in the mountains. That about right? I rarely find better prices than at Pricepoint FWIW. If they have what I want I usually don't look further anymore. Speedgoat is my other favorite.
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