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Post by terrelljiggums on Jun 17, 2008 19:11:24 GMT -5
I have a warped rear disc rotor (PROMAX DSK- 320 160mm) after a weekend on the trails and was curious if rotors are interchangeable? I know about the various size differences, but is there a universal 160mm, 6-pin mount, rotor replacement and, if such an item exists, where would I locate one of these?
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Post by azdrawdy on Jun 17, 2008 20:02:44 GMT -5
How badly warped is it? First things first: Have you tried to true it yourself? If you are mechanically inclined, they can be trued very carefully with an adjustable wrench. Numerous trips to the mtns of GA made me learn. If not, then I would suggest you head to one of the LBS that have a Park truing tool and have them toss the wheel on a truing stand and use the truing tool to get it all lined up. I watched Alex work the magic last week at Chain Reaction. He's good! If you want to replace it, heck I have a couple of them that I would give you, and some of them are brand new, or parking lot tested only. I have gone to the Shimano CenterLock rotor system and probably have a half-dozen 160mm six-bolt rotors sitting around. The six-bolt rotors are indeed interchangeable. If you must have a new one, and perhaps a couple of spares, then you have the option of hitting an LBS or ordering from an online retailer like Pricepoint.com. Their Delta Aztec rotor for $15 is a stout rotor. Not fancy, but very durable. Park Tool has an awesome website with many tips. parktool.com/Your options are many. MD |
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Post by terrelljiggums on Jun 17, 2008 20:17:27 GMT -5
It is not badly warped, but enough to produce a nice squelch when applied. I will probably take it to get trued and do my best to watch and learn any tricks relating to the process.
Many thanks,
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Post by EdgeE on Jun 18, 2008 6:50:34 GMT -5
Funny, I was about to ask a similar question. I have about 500 miles on my Hayes MX4 disk brakes (1ST set) and have noticed a loss in breaking. Pads? How long should they last? I have not pulled them to check wear, but I am. Also got the squelch on my last ride, could this be due to pads? I am guessing warn pads warped the rotor? Any words of advice?
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Post by azdrawdy on Jun 18, 2008 18:43:35 GMT -5
Funny, I was about to ask a similar question. I have about 500 miles on my Hayes MX4 disk brakes (1ST set) and have noticed a loss in breaking. Pads? How long should they last? I have not pulled them to check wear, but I am. Also got the squelch on my last ride, could this be due to pads? I am guessing warn pads warped the rotor? Any words of advice? I will take your "loss in braking" to mean that you are having to grab a handful of brake lever to slow down, when it used to perhaps take only a finger or two. Since we are talking mechanical disc brakes, then the first question I would ask is have you adjusted them? Hydraulics are typically self-adjusting, and mechanicals are not self-adjusting. You should be able to hit the Hayes web site and pull up the info on adjusting that particular brake system, if you didn't get any brake literature with the bike purchase. The length of a pad's life depends on a couple of things, first and foremost is whether they see much mud. Used to be (back before discs) a set of pad's life was measured in hours or days, but now that the discs are out of the way of mud/muck, they last much longer. Just need to pop-em out and compare them to a new set. Squealing: Usually very prevalent when wet/damp. Ride through some wet grass, listen to the howling. If the squealing is pretty constant, then treat'em like car brakes, and check pad thickness. Avids have a nice little metal tab that touches the rotor and squeals when the pads are worn and should be replaced. Some do, most don't. Squealing usually has nothing to do with a rotor out of true. You usually notice an out of true rotor because the braking system makes a nice little brushing sound every time the wheel rotates. Worn pads won't normally warp a rotor. Excessive heat buildup warps a bike's rotor, just like a car. Ride the brakes down a long downhill, and you just may warp the rotors. Then you can either replace the rotor, or start the adjustable wrench exercise... |
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Post by EdgeE on Jun 19, 2008 6:50:58 GMT -5
Thanks! I'll check the Hayes site. Yes, by "loss in braking" I do mean I have to squeeze hard, where before I could feather them, and even with a hard squeeze they feel like wet cantilever brakes. I am only talking about my rear brakes. I adjusted the cable, but that seems to have only reduced the amount of travel in the brake lever. I don't ride the trails when wet (except a few laps @ BD) but, that is when I ride FS roads. My main love for disc brakes is in their ability to work when wet, and have changed the way I look @ a rainy day. So, it sounds like I should buy a few pads. Thanks again.
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Post by ted on Jun 19, 2008 11:09:26 GMT -5
Sounds like your pads might be contaminated which is possible being near the drivetrain.
If you've got plenty of pad material left then this is likely the problem.
Try some new ones and see what happens.
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Post by EdgeE on Jul 2, 2008 10:58:10 GMT -5
Thanks. I changed out the pads (is that easy) and had brakes again. The only problem was I waited around for over a week to do it, and I missed out on a few FATS rides.
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Post by Mark Y on May 18, 2009 16:37:58 GMT -5
Looks like I found the right thread. My front brakes are squealing obnoxiously, and I noted some scoring on the rotor yesterday. They are Avid BB 7 mechanicals. Should I bite the bullet and get a rotor too, or is it likely a pad change will stop the squealing?(If it was my car, the rotor would get turned) They seem to still have some grab without having to squeeze extra hard. If I do make a rotor change, does anyone know of a compatible rotor that would serve me better than the Avid? Or pads for that matter?
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Post by ted on May 18, 2009 19:26:17 GMT -5
Looks like I found the right thread. My front brakes are squealing obnoxiously, and I noted some scoring on the rotor yesterday. They are Avid BB 7 mechanicals. Should I bite the bullet and get a rotor too, or is it likely a pad change will stop the squealing?(If it was my car, the rotor would get turned) They seem to still have some grab without having to squeeze extra hard. If I do make a rotor change, does anyone know of a compatible rotor that would serve me better than the Avid? Or pads for that matter? Avids are known for howling and garbling. Especially when wet. You could try any other 160mm-6 bolt rotor. They're all pretty much stamped steel. There are aluminum rotors available from Stans No-tubes and Titanium rotors as well, but I don't think either would make much difference. Like I said Avid either squeals or it doesn't. Simple as that. Just try some of the new Avid rotors. Shimano also work well. I think they run $30 or so. I've got some Avid brakes and have switched to Organic pads which have helped with the squealing when wet. |
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Post by Mark Y on May 18, 2009 19:36:41 GMT -5
I will bring it by.
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Post by azdrawdy on May 18, 2009 19:52:53 GMT -5
Agree with ted on the wet squealing Avids. There are hundreds of posts on mtbr.com about squealing Avids. With all the moisture we have had recently, and with the amount of undergrowth on the trails, there's a lot of little grasses slapping your tires/wheels/rotors and keeping them damp, leading to potential howling.
A big +1 on the organics. That's all I run anymore.
One thing to check though: The pad holder (small springy piece of metal that wraps around the two pads) has a tiny bend in it that touches the rotor and warns you when the pads are getting low. Unless your pads are new, check the pad thickness before starting to replace everything else. That may sound too obvious, but...
MD
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