|
Post by cwwalker on Aug 28, 2015 8:26:06 GMT -5
Currently I've got a Trek FX 7.5, and an old Raleigh M60. I would like to get back into trail riding, and have the option of my wife being able to ride the Raleigh. The FX has a carbon fork and just isn't made for stuff like FATS. I've been to Andy Jordans, and done a ton of research and come to the conclusion I would rather buy used. I'm not spending $1300+ just to get a decent component set and a fork that isn't made by Suntour.
I would really be interested in a used hardtail with a good component set an fork, one that somebody has already eaten the depreciation on. Back where I am from the bike shops bought and sold used bikes as well. Is there any shop in this area that does that, or a person that sells them?
Any info would be helpful, thanks.
|
|
|
Post by cwwalker on Aug 28, 2015 19:09:22 GMT -5
Going to have to rock out on the FX 7.5 @ FATS on sunday...I'll let my wife take the Raleigh M60. I've rode it all over FATS and it's quite capable for an old rig w/Deore and Rock Shox Judy. Tried to buy 2 bikes, no response. Anyone?
|
|
|
Post by kconner on Aug 28, 2015 21:00:22 GMT -5
None of the local shops really sell used bikes unless they happen to have something sitting around that may have been traded in. Craigslist is typically not worth your time if you're looking for a break in price.
If you're interested in staying on FATS for now, there's probably nothing wrong with your current set up. FATS is typically considered to be fairly tame as far as singletrack goes, and it's common to see fully rigid and/or single speed bikes out there. That being said, if you really want a suspension fork, you may have some luck buying a used fork by itself.
Good luck!
|
|
|
Post by cwwalker on Aug 29, 2015 5:52:38 GMT -5
My concern is mostly the carbon fork on the FX. It's a Bontrager Satellite Plus. Tires and wheels are also a concern. The bike has Kenda Rain V-cuts on it, which really aren't made for any type of off road. I lowered them to the minimum rating on the tire of 50PSI, but am still concerned about a pinch flat. This is the exact bike. www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2007/archive/trek/75fx/#/us/en/archive-model/details?url=us/en/bikes/2007/archive/trek/75fxThe only thing I have changed is going to flat carbon bars that were narrower, different seat, carbon seatpost, flipped stem, the Kenda tires, and Avid SD7 brake levers. It's in dire need of some Kool Stop pads as well. Thanks for your reply.
|
|
|
Post by dgaddis1 on Sept 9, 2015 12:28:33 GMT -5
That Trek is definitely not a MTB, and you're right to be concerned with the fork/wheels/tires. The tires will have very little grip and volume, which will leave the rims vulnerable to getting hit when you bottom out the tire. The rims aren't made for that kind of abuse, and the wheels in general aren't going to be stiff with only 20 spokes each. I would ride very gingerly till you can get something more suitable. I'd stick to Bartram personally, it's a lot smoother and flatter.
|
|
|
Post by nitro on Sept 9, 2015 15:03:24 GMT -5
That Trek is definitely not a MTB, and you're right to be concerned with the fork/wheels/tires. The tires will have very little grip and volume, which will leave the rims vulnerable to getting hit when you bottom out the tire. The rims aren't made for that kind of abuse, and the wheels in general aren't going to be stiff with only 20 spokes each. I would ride very gingerly till you can get something more suitable. I'd stick to Bartram personally, it's a lot smoother and flatter. He bought my Niner EMD with Stans Arch rims -- he should be good to go. Might want to add a front suspension fork...
|
|
|
Post by dgaddis1 on Sept 10, 2015 6:18:38 GMT -5
He bought my Niner EMD with Stans Arch rims -- he should be good to go. Might want to add a front suspension fork... Sweet! Suspension is totally optional.
|
|
|
Post by cwwalker on Sept 10, 2015 6:41:23 GMT -5
That Trek is definitely not a MTB, and you're right to be concerned with the fork/wheels/tires. The tires will have very little grip and volume, which will leave the rims vulnerable to getting hit when you bottom out the tire. The rims aren't made for that kind of abuse, and the wheels in general aren't going to be stiff with only 20 spokes each. I would ride very gingerly till you can get something more suitable. I'd stick to Bartram personally, it's a lot smoother and flatter. Before I bought the Niner EMD, I did ride out at Horn Creek. I dropped the PSI on the tires of the Trek FX to 50PSI. It has 700 x 38mm Kenda Rain V-Cuts, so at least they had some tread. The bike did incredibly well, considering it isn't made for such things. I was very "gingerly" on it though, because I was nervous about the carbon fork, a bent wheel, or a pinch flat. My wife was riding my old Raleigh M60 26er that's stock except for some Avid BB5 brakes. The Niner EMD is an awesome ride, and I don't think it needs a fork. I've ridden Keg Creek, Augusta Canal, Deepstep, Big Rock + Tower, Great Wall, and Skinny + Brown wave on it since I bought it from Nitro. It's a lightweight tank that just rolls over s**t. If I was to get a fork, I would want an entry level Air fork, nothing super expensive but I would still want quality. I was thinking of a Rock Shox Recon Silver or Recon Gold, 100mm 29er fork. I realize the bike I purchased can do 15mm or 20mm, but what sort of steerer tube do I need? I see 1 1/8, tapered, and I don't know what the EMD uses. I've seen forks a few people have bought, but it was for the newer hydroformed EMD frame, and I'm not sure if the older tubular one is different. Nitro, or anyone else have any info? Thanks
|
|
|
Post by nitro on Sept 10, 2015 9:12:39 GMT -5
It is not a tapered head tube -- should be a straight 1 1/8". I guess you could call that an 'older' style, but there are still a ton of good suspension options. The caveat though is that they seem to be primarily with QR axles (not 15mm or 20mm). I ran a RockShox XC on it for a year(can't remember the actual model - cost about $400 new) and never had an issue flex. As long as you are not 250lbs, you should be fine with a QR axle fork.
|
|
|
Post by cwwalker on Sept 10, 2015 11:24:54 GMT -5
Thanks. When I said older style I was referring to the EMD frame design. The 2013+ or so (not sure of exact year) are those ugly hydroformed frames. I actually prefer the tubular, and it's lighter.
1 1/8 straight, 15 or 20mm. Quick release should be fine and I need it on the front because I remove the front wheel for transport. I'm 180lbs.
|
|
|
Post by dgaddis1 on Sept 15, 2015 7:49:27 GMT -5
I'd recommend a thru-axle fork, 15mm. It's WAY stiffer than a QR fork. After I rode a TA fork for a while, when I went back to a QR I stopped several times to check and see if the QR lever was loose, it felt like the wheel was folding over sideways. That's the same frame and wheel, just the fork was different.
On a rigid fork, the QR axle is fine. But with suspension, it makes a big difference. You have to consider if the wheel can be converted or not too, not sure what hub you're using.
For lower cost options, I really like the Manitou Tower Pro fork I had for a while. It was about $550 new and worked GREAT. And it didn't leak oil like the $900 Fox fork I also had...
You can also look for a used fork, but be prepared to spend some money getting it rebuilt and whatnot.
|
|
|
Post by nitro on Sept 16, 2015 12:11:28 GMT -5
Definitely agree that if you can get a 15mm or 20mm axle, do it. I just don't see anybody making a 1 1/8 tube fork with the larger axles. All appear to be QR only.
|
|
|
Post by dgaddis1 on Sept 17, 2015 12:19:53 GMT -5
|
|